CPO is running a sale; delta 3HP saw for $2340 delivered to MA.  This is at least $550 less than a similar sawstop (assuming i were to pick SS up in NH without any shipping charge).  The online reviews comparing the two are pretty old-- sometimes 6 years old.  Anybody at EMGW want to weigh in with advice?    I've been planning on upgrading this winter and was thinking of SS because of the safety features and because it is highly regarded overall, but unisaw seems to be the old gold standard, and the price difference today appears to be significant.

I hope that was a typo and it's 3 hp, not 3 ph (phase). I would be surprised if you want to rewire your shop for 3 phase. I have and love my Unisaw. Although the finger saving technology is great, it's the riving knife in the Sawstop that would, to me, be important. It reduces the potential for kick-back. Perhaps the new Unisaws have roving knives these days? Mine is 10 years old and does not.

I used a Powermatic 66 for about 15 years in my home shop.  When I moved to Brooksby, they had a SawStop.  I have now used it for about three years and can find nothing negative regarding it's accuracy.  There is no discount on SawStop, but you might negotiate a substantial discount on additional equipment to circumvent the fixed price.

I have only one issue with the SawStop.  You have to change the cartridge when you want to use an 8" dado set.  This takes time.  But we have had a couple of finger saves here, so it's worth it.  And the 10" cartridge won't work with a 10" dado set.  We had a class in a shop in Concord a couple of years ago and there were two SawStops–one for normal cutting and one for dado blades.  I now know why.

When I was looking, the SS was about $1000 more than I really wanted to spend, but then I thought.... How cheap is a $100/finger insurance policy?

Bill

I have been reviewing the choices to replace my 30 year old Jet contractors style table saw that I have adapted with every accessory I could find to improve on it. But it doesn't have a riving knife!

Important areas to consider, a riving knife that moves with the blade; point of manufacture of the saw assembly and electric motor; customer service, and dust port lay out to fit in your shop.

Almost all modern electric motors are made in either Mexico, China, or Taiwan. I'll go with Taiwan, trust me, after 20 years as an International Sourcing Procurement Manager I've been to and seen a enough of them all.

Where the major components of the saw are cast and machined is also important. Take a straight edge and check the top. Is it flat? Is it flat to the wings? Take a good look at the drive belt system, comparisons are stark.

I want to lean toward the Sawstop, but a couple of things are holding me back. The carriage assembly for Dado work, the wing extensions are composite materials, dust port layout, and an extra $450.00 for 220vt motor.

If you are paying attention, and using your push sticks and feather boards correctly, your fingers should never get in harms way. As for passing it on to children or grand children, I'm assuming my new saw will be worn out and the newest technologies will be in place. 

I'm still looking,

Jim Allen